How to Take Care of Young Fruit Trees

The first step is to learn about the tree's history prior to planting. Even if you manage to track down the best bare-root specimen possible, it will still be missing well over half of its original root system. Since the tree's trunk is so much larger compared to its roots, the latter will strain to supply enough water and nutrients to the tree's canopy. In the early phases, we need to alleviate as much stress as possible from the already weakened tree. As opposed to focusing on fruit production, it is more important to strengthen and expand the roots.

The first step, and you won't enjoy it, is to pick off all the immature fruit. Given our current lack of patience, it's no surprise that most fruit tree nurseries only sell "first-year bearing" trees. Fruiting is an energy-intensive process that, as we've shown, is better put towards expanding the plant's root system. In the spirit of fun, you can let one fruit bud develop into a single apple, but don't expect any apple pies to be baked in the first year. In the second year, you should let six fruits mature and then stop.

In addition, make sure that the space around the tree is clear of weeds for at least one metre in all directions. Beautiful as they may be, weeds are actually robust plants that fight with young trees for soil resources, as stated in the introduction. Above, you can see the tidy space surrounding the trunk of one of my brand-new plum trees. At the time of planting, I dug up any weeds with deep roots and mulched the area with firm bedding. Mulch can be obtained cheaply and conveniently from local riding stables. Because of the high concentration of wood shavings or sawdust, it is best used as a surface mulch to prevent weeds from growing.

7 Steps On The Proper Way to Plant a Tree

Dig a suitable planting hole.

If you're digging a hole to plant something, you should make it three times as wide as the existing root mass, but no deeper than the plant was previously growing.

Even more telling of a tree's overall health is the curve of the trunk right above the ground. Planting the tree too deeply could result in the flare being buried. It's true that even in nurseries, plants occasionally end up in pots that are too deep. The directly exposed roots and the base of the trunk flare have sometimes required me to dig rather deeply. Keep a close eye on this.

Propagate a tall crop

Trees and shrubs should be planted with up to a quarter of their root ball above the surrounding soil level. Next, spread a thick layer of mulch on top of the dirt and slope it upwards to cover the plant's roots. As the earth settles after being disturbed, plants such as shrubs and trees that were planted at grade may end up dying from root rot or disease if they were planted too deeply.

Planting a tree or shrub at an angle that allows excess water to drain away is, in my opinion, always preferable to having the plant rest in a bowl that collects water.

Understanding the Break-Up-Root process is essential when planting a tree.

It's okay to split up the roots of a potted tree or plant to get them out of their confined circle. You need to. If you don't do it now (while you still have the chance), your plant might as well be doomed to mediocre performance.

Check the foundation and agitate it if needed.

Once you've got the plant out of its pot, you may have a look at its roots. If they are growing in a tight circle or according to the contour of the container, you should separate them.

Now is the time to put a halt to this cycle. The worst thing you can do now is put a plant that is rootbound directly into the ground. You have probably doomed the plant to a gradual death unless you disrupt the pattern. This endeavour will never gain traction or even come close to realising its full potential.

The roots can be broken apart or even cut away without fear of harming the plant or the soil. It is preferable to start over rather to let the suffocating pattern worsen underground. While you shouldn't be excessively harsh, you should do what has to be done to break the cycle.

To properly plant a tree, you must use only local soil while filling in the hole.

If you can't afford to excavate a hole big enough to accommodate the mature root zone and amend the entire area, you should be fine just using the natural soil as a backfill.

Refrain from adding fertiliser to the soil.

Newer studies contradict standard planting advice by suggesting that no organic matter should be added to the hole. Roots that are growing in modified soil rarely penetrate the underlying native soil because of its increased hardness. The long-term effects are a weaker plant with a stunted root system and decreased growth.

Instead, the clumps in the existing soil can be broken up, the rocks can be removed, and backfill can be performed. Roots of plants grown in nothing but their native soil performed better in studies of establishment and growth beyond the first planting hole.

Eliminate air pockets

To guarantee proper soil-to-root contact, you could softly tamp or hand-pack the dirt around the plant's roots, but we find that adding a stiff spray of water to the hole after you've backfilled halfway is much more effective. In addition to supplying essential moisture, the water also works to flush out any pockets of air that may otherwise cause the roots to dry out, rot, or die (without compacting the soil too much). Once everything is in position, water again, this time more softly yet thoroughly.

Complement the soil with mulch.

Leave the first two inches of the trunk uncovered, and then surround the plant with a layer of organic material (such as shredded leaves, ground bark, or nuggets) extending at least to the drip line. To get as far away as possible is ideal. As a result of its ability to retain water and keep roots colder towards the surface, mulch is an essential component for newly planted vegetation.

Until your plant is well-established, maintaining a consistent watering schedule is crucial. It can take longer than you expect. The use of soaker hoses or timed drip irrigation makes this a breeze.

Make sure to give it plenty of water till it's established.

Maintaining adequate watering of newly planted shrubs and trees is the primary responsibility of the gardener during the establishment phase. This may take a few months to a year or more. But have no fear. It is possible to automate this step.

The key to optimal watering and establishment is slow and deep irrigation. Doing it by hand is impractical. The only way to establish trees correctly through irrigation is with soaker hoses or drip irrigation.

By watering slowly and deeply, we can ensure that the soil surrounding the roots becomes well saturated without causing any runoff. Delivering water with short, manual bursts from an above hose or sprinkler system is ineffective.

When you plant trees, tend to them every day for the first week. I'll slow down to once every other day for the next two weeks. After that, reduce the pace to a slow trot.

With huge trees that come with root balls wrapped in burlap, however, there is a narrow line between watering enough and watering too much. As a result of being uprooted, these trees have no remaining feeding roots. Their continued existence and growth depend on having access to sufficient water.

However, we overwatered trees before and they died. If drainage is insufficient, even a big planting hole may leave the root ball submerged. The soil moisture level further down in the planting hole cannot be easily determined.

Our best recommendation is to observe how the tree reacts (and all your plants, for that matter). In spite of the fact that they may lose as many as half of their leaves due to transplant stress (a perfectly normal occurrence), any more than that may signal an issue.

If you water regularly but see a lack of response from the tree, you are probably watering too much. If the soil looks dry and the leaves begin to darken, dry out, and fall off, you need to water more.

Complicating matters further, soil that seems dry on the surface may actually be quite damp just beneath the surface. Also, the converse is also correct. And that's why it's crucial to use your sleuthing abilities based on observation and knowledge of how much or how little you've been watering.

In the beginning stages, you want to aim for soil that is damp but not soaked. Furthermore, the duration of each irrigation session is affected by the method of water delivery. Therefore, there is no easy solution.

Guidelines for Caring for Fruit Trees

Your trees' height can be kept under control while still producing a healthy crop if you pay attention to these four elements. Gardeners can benefit from Tom Spellman's advice below, as he works at Dave Wilson Nursery, one of the largest fruit tree producers in the country.

In order to maintain a moist soil, water is necessary.

Tom Spellman advises completely submerging a fruit tree's root ball in water before planting it. Use a hose to thoroughly wet the soil around the roots after planting to eliminate any remaining air gaps. Soil around the root ball may need to be watered as many as six times on the first day after planting.

After the initial watering, it is best to use a moisture metre to decide how much and how often to water, as this fluctuates with the season. Check the soil moisture levels at many spots along the drain pipe using the moisture metre. After the mulch has been removed, Spellman checks the soil depth at 18 and 36 inches from the trunk. It is recommended to take readings at most once a week during the growing season, and to water the tree at sunrise, from the drip line out and about 1 to 2 feet away from the plant, until the metre reads moist. Making a watering schedule based on visual inspection alone can be difficult. According to Spellman, the signs of an over-watered tree are the same as those of a thirsty one. 

Beneficial bacteria mulch

Mulch placed around a tree's trunk has many benefits, including preventing weed growth and maintaining a comfortable soil temperature. Mulch, if properly chosen, can increase soil biodiversity, which in turn encourages root development. In order to achieve the best results, Spellman recommends applying a layer of mulch anywhere from four to six inches thick, preferably made up of a wide variety of organic materials. His general rule of thumb is that no single component of the mulch should account for more than 10%-20% of the whole volume. This includes shredded leaves, compost, wood chips, grass clippings, pine needles, and wood nuggets. The best-looking mulch, such as wood chips, should be saved and used as the top layer after an online volume calculator has been used to establish how much mulch is required. Mulch should be kept at a distance of 6-8 inches from the bark to avoid rotting.

Changing Fertilizer Brands

Spellman tailors the fertiliser he applies to the needs of each individual tree. For the first few years following planting, his main goal is to get the tree to a good height, thus fruit production is put on hold. To do this, he employs a fertiliser with a nitrogen (N) level two or three times higher than the phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) level, such as a 16-4-8 blend designed to promote healthy, lush green growth. Continue giving the tree water and food as directed on the bag until it reaches a reasonable height (around 7 1/2 to 8 feet). If a peach tree is pruned to stay at 10 feet tall, instead of the 350 pounds it would produce in a commercial orchard at 20 feet tall, the tree will bear fruit in about two weeks' time.

Change to a fertiliser that encourages root growth, flowering, and fruit production once the tree has reached a manageable size. If you want to avoid having to spend time trimming back unruly growth, spreading a blend with a 3-12-12 nitrogen to phosphorus and potassium ratio is a good idea. Incorporate feedings into your early spring and midsummer routines.

Keep in mind that investing in more established trees won't necessarily hasten the process of growing fruit trees. It's true that a tree that's been around for 7 years is more likely to produce fruit sooner than one that's only 2 years old, but what truly matters is how long the plant has been rooted in its new location. Typically, a tree needs around three years to fully adapt to your environment before it begins producing optimally.

Trimming Trees for a Better Figure

Spellman does a lot of trimming in both of his sessions. He reduces the size of the tree by cutting off any twigs that are growing in the opposite direction between the months of May and August. You can also use an elevated sprayer connected to your garden hose to safely remove dust, spiders, aphids, and scale off the tree's foliage at this time of year. Later, in the winter or early spring, more intensive pruning is conducted to deal with concerns including crossed branches, poor air flow, and dead or diseased limbs. A tree's general health is improved when dead branches are pruned away.

Before treating a tree with pesticide, be sure you know exactly what you're up against. Put a sample of the damaged foliage or branch into a plastic bag with a zip-top and bring it to a nursery that specialises in fruit trees for identification and advice on how to repair the problem. Keeping your fruit tree tidy might save you a lot of hassle down the line.

Conclusion 

If you're looking for the best bare-root specimen, chances are you'll be missing half of its original root system. In the early stages of growth, we need to alleviate as much stress as possible from the already weakened tree. Fruiting is an energy-intensive process that, as we've shown, is better put towards expanding the plant's roots. If you're planning to plant a tree or shrub in the garden, it's important to understand how to break up the roots of plants that are growing in a tight circle inside their pots. The worst thing you can do now is put a plant that is rootbound directly into the ground unless you disrupt the root pattern below.

The key to optimal watering and establishment is slow and deep irrigation. Leave the first two inches of the trunk uncovered, and then surround the plant with a layer of organic material. Maintaining adequate watering of newly planted shrubs and trees is the primary responsibility of the gardener. The use of soaker hoses or timed drip irrigation makes this a breeze. Tom Spellman advises completely submerging a fruit tree's root ball in water before planting it.

Delivering water with short, manual bursts from an above hose or sprinkler system is ineffective. If drainage is insufficient, even a big planting hole may leave the root ball submerged. Tom Spellman works at Dave Wilson Nursery, one of the largest fruit tree producers in the country. Mulch placed around a tree's trunk has many benefits, including preventing weed growth and maintaining a comfortable soil temperature. Soil around the root ball may need to be watered as many as six times on the first day after planting.

It is best to use a moisture metre to decide how much and how often to water, as this fluctuates with the season. If a tree has been around for 7 years, it's more likely to produce fruit sooner than one that's only 2 years old. Investing in established trees won't necessarily hasten the process of growing fruit trees. A tree needs around three years to fully adapt to its new environment before it begins producing optimally.

Content Summary: 

• The first step is to learn about the tree's history prior to planting.
• Even if you manage to track down the best bare-root specimen possible, it will still be missing well over half of its original root system.
• Since the tree's trunk is so much larger compared to its roots, the latter will strain to supply enough water and nutrients to the tree's canopy.
• In the early phases, we need to alleviate as much stress as possible from the already weakened tree.
• As opposed to focusing on fruit production, it is more important to strengthen and expand the roots.
• The first step, and you won't enjoy it, is to pick off all the immature fruit.
• Given our current lack of patience, it's no surprise that most fruit tree nurseries only sell "first-year bearing" trees.
• Fruiting is an energy-intensive process that, as we've shown, is better put towards expanding the plant's root system.
• In the spirit of fun, you can let one fruit bud develop into a single apple, but don't expect any apple pies to be baked in the first year.
• In the second year, you should let six fruits mature and then stop.
• In addition, make sure that the space around the tree is clear of weeds for at least one metre in all directions.
• Beautiful as they may be, weeds are actually robust plants that fight with young trees for soil resources, as stated in the introduction.
• Above, you can see the tidy space surrounding the trunk of one of my brand-new plum trees.
• At the time of planting, I dug up any weeds with deep roots and mulched the area with firm bedding.
• Because of the high concentration of wood shavings or sawdust, it is best used as a surface mulch to prevent weeds from growing.
• If you're digging a hole to plant something, you should make it three times as wide as the existing root mass, but no deeper than the plant was previously growing.
• Even more telling of a tree's overall health is the curve of the trunk right above the ground.
• The directly exposed roots and the base of the trunk flare have sometimes required me to dig rather deeply.
• Keep a close eye on this.
• Trees and shrubs should be planted with up to a quarter of their root ball above the surrounding soil level.
• Next, spread a thick layer of mulch on top of the dirt and slope it upwards to cover the plant's roots.
• As the earth settles after being disturbed, plants such as shrubs and trees that were planted at grade may end up dying from root rot or disease if they were planted too deeply.
• Planting a tree or shrub at an angle that allows excess water to drain away is, in my opinion, always preferable to having the plant rest in a bowl that collects water.
• Understanding the Break-Up-Root process is essential when planting a tree.
• It's okay to split up the roots of a potted tree or plant to get them out of their confined circle.
• If you don't do it now (while you still have the chance), your plant might as well be doomed to mediocre performance.
• Check the foundation and agitate it if needed.
• Once you've got the plant out of its pot, you may have a look at its roots.
• If they are growing in a tight circle or according to the contour of the container, you should separate them.
• Now is the time to put a halt to this cycle.
• The worst thing you can do now is put a plant that is rootbound directly into the ground.
• You have probably doomed the plant to a gradual death unless you disrupt the pattern.
• The roots can be broken apart or even cut away without fear of harming the plant or the soil.
• It is preferable to start over rather than let the suffocating pattern worsen underground.
• While you shouldn't be excessively harsh, you should do what has to be done to break the cycle.
• To properly plant a tree, you must use only local soil while filling in the hole.
• If you can't afford to excavate a hole big enough to accommodate the mature root zone and amend the entire area, you should be fine just using the natural soil as a backfill.
• Newer studies contradict standard planting advice by suggesting that no organic matter should be added to the hole.
• Roots that are growing in modified soil rarely penetrate the underlying native soil because of its increased hardness.
• The long-term effects are a weaker plant with a stunted root system and decreased growth.
• Instead, the clumps in the existing soil can be broken up, the rocks can be removed, and backfill can be performed.
• Roots of plants grown in nothing but their native soil performed better in studies of establishment and growth beyond the first planting hole.
• To guarantee proper soil-to-root contact, you could softly tamp or hand-pack the dirt around the plant's roots, but we find that adding a stiff spray of water to the hole after you've backfilled halfway is much more effective.
• In addition to supplying essential moisture, the water also works to flush out any pockets of air that may otherwise cause the roots to dry out, rot, or die (without compacting the soil too much).
• Once everything is in position, water again, this time more softly yet thoroughly.
• Complement the soil with mulch.
• Leave the first two inches of the trunk uncovered, and then surround the plant with a layer of organic material (such as shredded leaves, ground bark, or nuggets) extending at least to the drip line.
• As a result of its ability to retain water and keep roots colder towards the surface, mulch is an essential component for newly planted vegetation.
• Until your plant is well-established, maintaining a consistent watering schedule is crucial.
• It can take longer than you expect.
• The use of soaker hoses or timed drip irrigation makes this a breeze.
• Make sure to give it plenty of water till it's established.
• Maintaining adequate watering of newly planted shrubs and trees is the primary responsibility of the gardener during the establishment phase.
• This may take a few months to a year or more.
• But have no fear.
• It is possible to automate this step.
• The key to optimal watering and establishment is slow and deep irrigation.
• Delivering water with short, manual bursts from an above hose or sprinkler system is ineffective.
• When you plant trees, tend to them every day for the first week.
• After that, reduce the pace to a slow trot.
• With huge trees that come with root balls wrapped in burlap, however, there is a narrow line between watering enough and watering too much.
• As a result of being uprooted, these trees have no remaining feeding roots.
• Their continued existence and growth depend on having access to sufficient water.
• However, we overwatered trees before and they died.
• If drainage is insufficient, even a big planting hole may leave the root ball submerged.
• The soil moisture level further down in the planting hole cannot be easily determined.
• Our best recommendation is to observe how the tree reacts (and all your plants, for that matter).
• In spite of the fact that they may lose as many as half of their leaves due to transplant stress (a perfectly normal occurrence), any more than that may signal an issue.
• If you water regularly but see a lack of response from the tree, you are probably watering too much.
• If the soil looks dry and the leaves begin to darken, dry out, and fall off, you need to water more.
• Complicating matters further, soil that seems dry on the surface may actually be quite damp just beneath the surface.
• Also, the converse is also correct.
• And that's why it's crucial to use your sleuthing abilities based on observation and knowledge of how much or how little you've been watering.
• In the beginning stages, you want to aim for soil that is damp but not soaked.
• Furthermore, the duration of each irrigation session is affected by the method of water delivery.
• Therefore, there is no easy solution.
• Your trees' height can be kept under control while still producing a healthy crop if you pay attention to these four elements.
• Gardeners can benefit from Tom Spellman's advice below, as he works at Dave Wilson Nursery, one of the largest fruit tree producers in the country.
• Soil around the root ball may need to be watered as many as six times on the first day after planting.
• After the initial watering, it is best to use a moisture metre to decide how much and how often to water, as this fluctuates with the season.
• Check the soil moisture levels at many spots along the drain pipe using the moisture metre.
• After the mulch has been removed, Spellman checks the soil depth at 18 and 36 inches from the trunk.
• It is recommended to take readings at most once a week during the growing season, and to water the tree at sunrise, from the drip line out and about 1 to 2 feet away from the plant, until the metre reads moist.
• Making a watering schedule based on visual inspection alone can be difficult.
• According to Spellman, the signs of an over-watered tree are the same as those of a thirsty one.
• Mulch placed around a tree's trunk has many benefits, including preventing weed growth and maintaining a comfortable soil temperature.
• Mulch, if properly chosen, can increase soil biodiversity, which in turn encourages root development.
• In order to achieve the best results, Spellman recommends applying a layer of mulch anywhere from four to six inches thick, preferably made up of a wide variety of organic materials.
• His general rule of thumb is that no single component of the mulch should account for more than 10%-20% of the whole volume.
• This includes shredded leaves, compost, wood chips, grass clippings, pine needles, and wood nuggets.
• The best-looking mulch, such as wood chips, should be saved and used as the top layer after an online volume calculator has been used to establish how much mulch is required.
• Mulch should be kept at a distance of 6-8 inches from the bark to avoid rotting.
• Spellman tailors the fertiliser he applies to the needs of each individual tree.
• For the first few years following planting, his main goal is to get the tree to a good height, thus fruit production is put on hold.
• To do this, he employs a fertiliser with a nitrogen (N) level two or three times higher than the phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) level, such as a 16-4-8 blend designed to promote healthy, lush green growth.
• Continue giving the tree water and food as directed on the bag until it reaches a reasonable height (around 7 1/2 to 8 feet).
• If a peach tree is pruned to stay at 10 feet tall, instead of the 350 pounds it would produce in a commercial orchard at 20 feet tall, the tree will bear fruit in about two weeks' time.
• Change to a fertiliser that encourages root growth, flowering, and fruit production once the tree has reached a manageable size.
• If you want to avoid having to spend time trimming back unruly growth, spreading a blend with a 3-12-12 nitrogen to phosphorus and potassium ratio is a good idea.
• Incorporate feedings into your early spring and midsummer routines.
• Keep in mind that investing in more established trees won't necessarily hasten the process of growing fruit trees.
• It's true that a tree that's been around for 7 years is more likely to produce fruit sooner than one that's only 2 years old, but what truly matters is how long the plant has been rooted in its new location.
• Typically, a tree needs around three years to fully adapt to your environment before it begins producing optimally.
• Trimming Trees for a Better Figure Spellman does a lot of trimming in both of his sessions.
• He reduces the size of the tree by cutting off any twigs that are growing in the opposite direction between the months of May and August.
• You can also use an elevated sprayer connected to your garden hose to safely remove dust, spiders, aphids, and scale off the tree's foliage at this time of year.
• Later, in the winter or early spring, more intensive pruning is conducted to deal with concerns including crossed branches, poor air flow, and dead or diseased limbs.
• A tree's general health is improved when dead branches are pruned away.
• Before treating a tree with pesticide, be sure you know exactly what you're up against.
• Put a sample of the damaged foliage or branch into a plastic bag with a zip-top and bring it to a nursery that specialises in fruit trees for identification and advice on how to repair the problem.
• Keeping your fruit tree tidy might save you a lot of hassle down the line.